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That ice needs to be defrosted first, so unplug the fridge, try to store vulnerable contents somewhere cold, and wait. You can speed defrost with steam from a kettle. Once all the ice is gone, probe that drain tube to look for blockage, vacuum the water away, and plug the fridge back in. Then look for the two fans, the condenser fan and the evaporator fan. Make sure they are working properly, the fan blades are spinning and it is moving air. Most fridges have a defrost heater element that can go bad, it is usually a simple resistance heater with a fuse. Find the circuit drawing somewhere inside the fridge, and find and identify the defrost element and its fuse. Defrost is a cycle that happens every few days, where fans turn off, the heater turns on, and the ice is melted. The timer for defrost can go bad, and old school fridges have mechanical timers that can get stuck in defrost mode. Your circuit drawing should clarify what design your fridge has.

There are small O rings that hold the jets in place. You can remove them to clean the area more aggressively but if the O rings are holding the jets secure you can leave them in place. The O rings would need to be replaced if the jets are loosely held. Interestingly, many aftermarket seal kits for this carb do not have those tiny O rings.

Probably OK, that sounds like normal work flow in a shop.

@@spelunkerd thanks

I love remarks that challenge conventional wisdom. What you're really trying to do is regulate and normalize the force holding the valve against the seat. Hydraulic lifters do that by applying exacting force directly, and when clearance changes the lifter automatically expands to compensate, so force is unchanged. Old style designs like this one use a spring and a shim. When the spring is more compressed, it applies greater force. As you say, over time carbon builds up on the edge of the valve and the seat, moving the valve slightly up, which compresses the spring more to apply greater force against the localized crud on the valve lip. A little of that might be OK, crushing the carbon to wet dust, but if the force is too high you could get damage to the valve lip because all of that force is aimed at a tiny spot. Of course the flip side of that is the valve that is held off the seat by the cam if the clearance is too small, reducing compression. So there's a sweet spot you need to be on. In the original design of the internal combustion engine, valve clearance failure was identified as a common cause of engine death. That led to the strategy of replaceable shims. There are many anecdotal stories here of poor valve clearance on the Vulcan leading to engine failure. So, I try not to question decisions made by engineers who designed and built these magical sleds.

That was an OEM pump made by General Motors, but other details are lost. Although very old now, there is still a healthy aftermarket for these pumps.

There's almost always a cause for loss of coolant, most often something relatively easy to fix like a leaking radiator, leaking hose connection, or a water pump that is leaking through seals. Rarely the problem is more serious, like a head gasket leak, cracked cylinder head, or internal leaking through an oil cooler in some models. The important thing is not to let the vehicle overheat. When coolant leaks out, you get trapped air pockets in the system which can cause severe overheating and secondary damage. After a major leak you need to "burp" the cooling system to remove trapped air pockets. I show how to do that in several videos that are listed in a cooling system playlist on my channel. Good luck!

Can you link a video specifically please?

That's not a problem I've experienced. On the distal end of the cable is a fork, which meshes with matching gears internally. My cable was actually broken, which as you say would be an easy fix. If the mating screw connection seems fine and the distal end fails to spin when you rotate the rear wheel, you'll have to disassemble the hub to see what's wrong. Please stop by to leave any feedback that others who visit here might appreciate.

These systems use a common ground, which will be the wire with the huge wire nut that all the solenoids trace to. Those wires usually have the same color, usually black. You place one multimeter probe onto the inside of that wire nut, and the second probe onto the second wire that leads to the solenoid. So, you're measuring voltage drop across the solenoid. Turn the zone on at the controller and measure AC voltage between those two probes. The most accurate way to assess wiring is to get current flowing, which will happen if the solenoid works and the wire route to and from the solenoid is intact. In that case you use the multimeter voltage to decide if there is upstream or downstream resistance causing power loss. If the solenoid doesn't work, you can substitute a load like a headlight bulb designed for 24V AC.

To my surprise, after running for a couple of minutes this little compressor doesn't take a lot of current, although I missed inrush current because it doesn't refresh frequently. As you say I would expect it to be much higher. With compressor and both fans running (fridge lights and motor for ice tray off), it drew only 1.8A, slowly dropping to about 1.4A after a few minutes. It was low enough that I questioned the accuracy of my device, so I used my clamp meter on a single hot wire to verify the finding as accurate. I'm sure it draws more during startup and during the defrost phase when the resistance heater melts evaporator ice.

All vehicles these days have pinch points behind the front wheels that are designed for the universal hoists used in repair facilities, so I jack there. That allows me to choose a beefy spot for the jack stands. In my Dodge, the steel frame where it ties into the inboard control arm is perfect. These old vehicles have a classic frame so there are many options. Newer vehicles saved hundreds of pounds of weight and have better defined jack points. The dealer service manual for those vehicles is the best resource.

In a classic car radiator, the exchange of heat happens between air and coolant. In salt water boats, they use a steady stream of ocean water rather than air. To exchange heat between the salt water and the coolant, a heat exchanger plays the same role as a radiator in a car. It allows exchange of heat without letting the two mix chemically. In exclusively fresh water boats and outboard motors, lake water itself is pumped into the engine to cool the cylinders directly, with no heat exchanger. The reason that doesn't work in salt water is galvanic corrosion that eats away at the engine from the inside out.

Hi Terry! For another video that does the same kind of deep dive, Chickanick here on UA-cam did one that adds some more detail. She talks about how the seal kits from Amazon are often missing the correct tiny O rings that hold the jets in place. She said that you don't need to remove or replace those O rings if the jets don't fall out. I left those in .

@@spelunkerdThanks Dave for the added info! I did see her video and it was informative too. It turns out that a Briggs and Stratton rebuild kit from Amazon is $95 and some change. Unbelievable when it’s mostly gaskets. She decided to buy the complete carburetor from Amazon for $40 whereas the one from John Deere is $240. I hope the cheap carburetor will work. Have a great evening.

Water in stale fuel accounts for the vast majority of problems like that, so I'd start there. If that doesn't work, I'd remove and clean the carb.

Yes. As you point out, comparison is tricky because many providers, including ours, have additional baseline charges added on. Like cell phone charges, you always end up paying more than you expect. In addition, our government provider punishes those who use more energy, ie progressive taxation. As lucrative government income from gasoline dries up, I expect rapidly escalating taxation on electricity to fill the void. Thank you for chiming in!

If I recall correctly there's an O ring on that screw. Turn water off, and unscrew it completely, being careful to not drop the O ring in the grass. If the O ring is missing you could disassemble a normally functioning valve screw to verify it should be in place and get the right size. You can buy inexpensive generic seal kits from Princess Auto, Harbor freight, or Amazon that will likely have one you need. I usually put a dab of silicone paste (not RTV or any paste that dries) onto the seal and threads to prevent leaks. Screw it back in and you should be good.

Immediately under the radiator cap, you can see the tip when you remove the cap. Easy to get to after removal of the tank.

@@spelunkerd thanks, my bike was running fine and someone noticed my radiator fan wasnt turning on, so i got someome to fix it, all it needed was a new fan switch, well the next day my light came on saying the bike was over heating, its never said that before even with the fan not working. No all i can think to do is chsnge radiator fluid and check the thermostat

@@shanemichaelneal First thing to check is radiator fluid level. Remove the radiator cap with engine cold and be sure that your fluid level is all the way to the top. The technique is called 'burping', where you run the bike with radiator cap off, tip the bike side to side and evacuate all bubbles, run it until the thermostat opens. Then put cap back on and allow bike to cool. The overnight cooling draws more coolant in, to replace trapped air. Make sure the reservoir is full, and that there are no pinholes in the tube connecting reservoir to radiator. Check cap to be sure the seal is OK. I explain the procedure in detail in several videos I did in a playlist of automotive cooling system videos on my channel. Let's hope that it is simply trapped air causing your overheat.

@@spelunkerd i went to drain the radiator fluid, there was no fluid at all, not a single drop. So i ran water through it to get sll the rust out, i filled it with water, then looked for a leak, it looked like a leak on the body around the thermostat, i tried to order a new body and new body upp, but out of stock on the body, so i just odered the body upp, a new o ring, and a new thermostat